After stopping to watch a sombre wedding parade at the shrine, I pass through streets dotted with candy-coloured girls who look like they have been lifted out of a manga cartoon. Thanks to the media, Japan has a lot to live up to. Wandering around Harajuku on a leisurely Sunday morning, I get the feeling that my expectations will be met. A small place filled with a strong sense of tradition and unusual extremes. This will be a city visit with a bipolar personality.