All posts by admin

Don’t Worry, Make Money

Chengdu


Her father, being one of the few Chengdu Lacquer craftsmen remaining, was told by the government that his skill had to be continued. Unable to find students willing to commit to the long processes, she and her husband took over the business themselves. She proudly announces that they are the only ones still making and selling these precious objects, and she may be right. Earlier I had paid a visit to the one remaining factory, also set up by the government in an attempt to save the craft, which supposedly still produced traditional lacquerware. The eerily quiet building turned out to be more of a hobby workshop for the other remaining lacquer craftspeople of the city.

So what is the future for this craft?
As I left the lady’s shop, I was reassured that this craft will soon be dead, and that if I brought one of the several thousand dollar vases I would get a great return on my investment. It was not the answer I was expecting, but again she may be right.

Craft for Change

Xining


Klaas, along with his wife, runs a project turned business that provides the structure within which poor semi-nomadic Tibetans are given the chance to improve their lives in the form of an additional source of income. After providing them with training in wool handicraft techniques that have been developed and progressed to suit the style and standard required to be sold in the modern westernized world, AmdoCraft places orders of designed products from them. These are then sold to shops and also in their own AmdoCafes.

Sitting in the cafe with a hot chocolate and cake, I contemplate why I am so drawn to this project. As a designer it is satisfying, as it illustrates how a well considered project and intelligent design really can make a positive difference in people’s lives. As someone living in an increasingly competitive capitalist world it is comforting, as it proves that business and human kindness can co-exist successfully. As a month and half long observer of China it is exciting, as it is hope that for those who want to continue living their own ethnic minority lifestyles but not struggle in poverty, there is an alternative to relocation, financial handouts and absorption into acceptable mainstream society.

Wild Carpet Chase

Hetain


Where had he been going?
What did he have planned originally?

He was walking on his way to somewhere, minding his own business, when 2 strangers asked for help. They were searching for a crafts maker, but all they had was a name, a photo and the area. He did not know the man, nor did he know the place. However, instead of just apologizing for not knowing, he became search party leader. He spoke very limited Mandarin, but all that was required was to follow as he walked and occasionally stopped to look and think. He inquired in Uyghur at a CD shop, the bank, a phone shop, 2 men sitting on a cart, a family in the courtyard of a closed carpet shop… The glint in his eye gave away how much he was reveling in the challenge; our shared laughter gave away how much we were enjoying each other’s company. As all our leads came to dead ends, we jump on the back of a motorbike-truck and head speedily somewhere. And it was halfway to there that we said goodbye. With a tug of his beard, he confirms with the driver the destination, jumps off, signals to give the driver 3RMB and disappears into a mass of people.

Never did find the craftsman, but instead found an intriguing 79 year old.

Home Simple Home

Kashgar


“No-one wants to learn, even if you paid them money!” This sixth generation Uyghur potter’s story sounds so familiar. His children have no interest in learning the family secret formula, and he laughs ironically as he gives his response to the question of whether he has apprentices.

He continues “People do not buy these things to use in their homes anymore, tourists buy them as souvenirs.” It seems that while tourism is able to keep this craft alive for the time being, the next generations are not so keen to become souvenir makers.

Visiting the market later on, I see what people do buy to use in their homes: Mass-manufactured, perfectly finished, minimally decorated china without any crude charm or obvious decoration. Perhaps it is a sign of development and changing tastes to suit the modern world. Cheap for everyone to buy, visually simple as not to be obtrusive in brightly lit white walled houses. Is it modern living that has forgotten to include space for the products of craft, or is it the craft that needs to develop to fit into the modern home? Probably both.

Fresh Local Produce

Drive from Genhe to Halaer


Big brother Goe picks up some groceris on his way home. Honey and pollen from Mr. Hulun Buir Beekeeper, 2 freshly caught fish from 2 girls at the side of the lake.

Thattaway!

Somewhere between Alongshan and the top of the mountain

Road signs, building landmarks, maps and GPS systems. These are all methods that modern drivers rely on for navigation. Without these, up a mountain, the only option is to ask for directions. Unfortunately, after encountering one serious cyclist and a lone worker guarding camp over the winter (who appeared not to have seen any humans for a while), no more help was to be received. It makes me wonder, when did we become so dependent on these artifical forms of navigation? When did we become so removed from the natural environment and lose the ability to navigate using the sun, stars and the mountains?

The destination was never found, but the journey was filled with spectacular scenery. Where modern man may have lost the ability to navigate using nature, it is impossible for him to forget how to be in awe of such natural beauty.